Margarine

Let me tell you about margarine, and let's be honest with each other.

Take it out of the fridge and press it with your finger. It gives slowly, then holds its shape — that is simply how this block is, don't ask more than your hand can tell you. Leave it on the counter and watch it soften, then melt clean on warm bread or in a hot pan. That is margarine doing its job.

Choose it by smell and colour, nothing else. It should smell clean and mild, never sharp, never waxy. The colour should be even, pale yellow, not streaked.

Some people say margarine is simply butter's cheaper cousin, same job, same result. No! Put a knob of each in a hot pan and watch. One may colour faster, one may linger longer on the tongue, one may spread thinner on bread straight from the fridge. The only honest way to know is to taste them side by side, with your own eyes open, and let your tongue decide.

Swap one for the other without checking first, and you will get a result you did not plan for — a cake that spreads too much, a pan that browns too fast. Learn the one you have in your hand, and cook accordingly.