Tangerine

Let me tell you about the tangerine, and you'll never grab the wrong one again.

A tangerine should feel heavy for its size. Pick it up — if it feels light, hollow, like an empty paper bag, put it back. Run a finger over the skin. It should feel smooth, with a glossy sheen, firm under a gentle press. A soft spot under your thumb means trouble is already starting inside, where you can't see it.

Hold it to your nose, close to the stem end, and breathe in. A good tangerine smells sharp and sweet at once, that bright citrus smell that fills the whole kitchen when you peel one. It's one of the small joys of buying fruit with your hands instead of your eyes.

Now, some people say a deep orange skin means a sweeter tangerine. No! I've peeled plenty of pale ones that were sweeter than their bright neighbors, and plenty of bright ones that were dry inside.

This is exactly the mistake people make at the fruit stand — filling the bag by color alone, admiring the brightest fruit, and going home without ever touching the heavy, smooth-skinned one sitting right next to it.