Veal Roast

Veal Roast is young beef, and that word "young" tells you what to expect in the pan. Press the meat with a finger: it gives a little and springs back, the grain is fine, almost soft, and a good roast keeps its shape instead of falling into shreds as it cooks.

Choose it by feel and smell, not by a date on a label. The surface should feel firm and slightly damp, never slick or sticky, and it shouldn't smell of anything but clean meat. The colour is usually a pale pink, lighter than mature beef, though it can vary a little from one animal to the next.

Some people say veal is bland because it's "just unripe beef." No! Mild flavour isn't a flaw here; it's the whole point — it takes butter, herbs, and good stock without fighting them. Treating it like a flavourless canvas and drowning it in strong marinades is the mistake that follows from that idea. Season it simply, baste it as it roasts, and let its own quiet taste come through. A heavy hand with spice is the surest way to waste a good piece of veal.