Scorpena Fillet

Listen to me, friend: before you buy Scorpena Fillet, put your hand on it. Press the flesh — it should spring back under your finger, firm, almost dense, nothing like the soft give of a mackerel fillet. This is the fish fishermen throw into soup, not into a frying pan, because it holds its shape in a simmering pot instead of falling apart into flakes, and it gives the broth a flavor worth waiting for.

Choosing it is simple: press the fillet — it should spring back, not sink. Smell it — clean, like the sea, nothing sour, nothing that reminds you of the dock at the end of a hot day. The flesh should look pearly, almost translucent, never dull or grey.

Some people say white, lean fish is always delicate and quick to cook. No! Scorpena is lean, yes, but not delicate — it stays firm and holds together in a simmering pot, and that fools cooks into thinking it can take any amount of heat. Leave it too long on the fire and it dries out and turns tough just the same. Watch for the flesh turning opaque white and pull it off the heat the moment it does.