Dried Thyme

Let me tell you about dried thyme, and why it deserves a place in a closed cupboard, cool and dark, not in the fridge door where damp and swinging temperatures will dull it fast.

Dried thyme consists of small, grey-green leaves, whole or crumbled, and once you know it by hand, you'll never mistake it for anything else. Rub a little between your fingers — if it releases that warm, herbal smell, like sun on a hillside, it's good. If your fingers come away smelling of dust, or of nothing at all, put it back.

Look at the colour too. Grey-green tells you it was dried well and kept well. Brown, dull leaves smell flat and bring little warmth to a dish — trust your nose over the label.

Now, the misconception. Some people say dried thyme is a poor cousin to fresh, so use more of it to compensate. No! Any cook who has made this mistake once remembers it: a spoonful too many, and the dish turns bitter, almost medicinal, thyme shouting over everything instead of standing quietly beside the meat, the soup, the vegetables, where it belongs. Use a light hand, taste as you go, and let it do its quiet work.