Clams

Let me tell you about clams, and why they deserve respect, not fear.

A clam is a closed world. Two shells, shut tight, like a little locked box. But don't trust the lock alone. A closed shell can still hide a dead clam packed with mud or sand — a "mudder," heavy and useless in your hand. So judge a clam by more than its looks. Pick it up. A living clam feels full, firm, and it closes when you tap it. It should smell only of the sea — no sourness, no rot. The shells should be whole, not cracked or chipped at the edge.

Some people say that if a clam doesn't open after cooking, you should force it, pry it, and eat the meat anyway. No! A clam that won't open has not told you its story. Cooked clams should gape wide, steam clean and briny, meat plump and glossy. If a shell stays shut and tight, leave it shut. Don't pry, don't gamble, don't taste. Throw it out — that's caution, not waste. Trust your hands and your nose before cooking, and trust your eyes after. That's how clams stay a pleasure on your table, and never a worry in your stomach.