Ribs

Ribs reward patience, low heat and time. Cut into a rack before it's ready and the meat clings to the bone, tight and stubborn, and you have to fight for every bite. Give it time over low heat and it lets go on its own, easy, the way it should. The fat turns soft and glossy, and the meat tastes rich and juicy, falling away clean. Rush them and you get chewy meat with hard, stubborn fat still sitting there, never having had the chance to soften.

Choose ribs with your hands as much as your eyes. Press the fat — it should feel firm and clean, never slimy or sticky. Colour varies a lot between animals, so don't judge freshness by yellow versus pale. Run your finger over the surface instead: it should feel smooth and slightly damp, not tacky, not dry and crusted. Trust your nose and your fingers over your eyes. Fresh ribs smell like nothing much, maybe faintly sweet. If there's any sour note, walk away.

Some people say the more meat on the rib, the better the rack. No! A lean-looking rack often eats dry, while a thinner, well-marbled one can taste better cooked. That misconception leads people to buy the meatiest-looking rack and walk away disappointed, wondering why all that meat ate dry instead of rich.