Smoked Paprika

Let me tell you about Smoked Paprika, and why it deserves respect, not a careless spoonful tossed in at the end.

This is ground pepper that carries real smoke in it, dark red-brown, with a deep, resinous smell. Drop a pinch into hot oil and watch: the oil should color and smell smoky within seconds. Don't let it sit there. Watch the color — if it darkens fast and the smell turns sharp and acrid instead of smoky, pull the pan off the heat. That's the line between flavoring your dish and ruining it.

Choose it by smell first. Bring the jar close — you should smell wood and pepper together. If it smells flat, like dust, leave it on the shelf. Look for dark red-brown; a jar that looks pale has little to offer.

Some people say Smoked Paprika is all the same, jar to jar. No! Rub a little between your fingers and smell again. A good jar gives you wood and pepper, warm and round, right through. Trusting the word "smoked" on the label alone makes cooks careless, dusting the spice on at the end without a thought. Taste as you go. If it tastes dusty instead of smoky, the jar has gone stale — time for a new one.