Egg Whites

Let me tell you about egg whites, and why they turn from a clear, runny liquid into something you can hold upside down over your head without a drop falling.

You whip egg whites, and bit by bit the liquid turns into foam, then into soft peaks that bend over like a wave, then into stiff, glossy peaks that stand straight up on the whisk. Sugar, added slowly, makes that foam shine and hold its shape instead of weeping in a puddle at the bottom of the bowl. That is what you are after.

A greasy bowl or whisk ruins everything here. A speck of yolk, a smear of oil left from washing up — any of it, and the whites will froth a little, then sit there, refusing to climb. So before you start, look the whites over for any trace of yolk, and make sure your bowl and whisk are properly washed and dry. That is cheaper insurance than any trick with a finger or a sniff.

Some people swear egg whites must come straight from the fridge, ice-cold, to whip up properly. No — I take mine out, crack them, and get on with it. Watch the bowl, not the clock: a glossy, bright white foam with peaks standing up straight tells you it is ready. Chase a temperature instead, and you will stand there waiting while a bowl right in front of you is already begging for sugar.